For St. Andrews Day over the weekend, I revisited something of a Scottish institution: Johnnie Walker Black Label.
The John Walker & Sons whisky machine has been running since their grocery opened in 1820. Whisky sales from the store led to them launching their own blended scotch whisky in 1865. What was originally their “Old Highland” went on to become recognised by its white label, and was later joined by its older siblings with the 9yo matured “Special Old Highland” adorned with a red label, and a 12yo matured “Extra Special Old Highland” represented with a black label. Following a smart rebrand in 1909 along with the addition of the now famous “Striding Man” the whiskies became known simply by their coloured labels.
Since its launch, the main malt whisky at the heart of the Black Label has been made at Cardhu in Speyside, with today’s offering now building on that and promoting the remainder of Diageo’s “Four Corners of Scotland” with grain from Cameronbridge and malt from Glenkinchie in the Lowlands, malt from Clynelish in the Highlands, and peaty malt power from Caol Ila in Islay. Reportedly, some 40 or so distilleries’ wares now contribute to the Johnnie Walker series.
All of the components for the Black Label have been aged for a minimum of 12 years, with the final blend bottled at 40% ABV after chill-filtration and the addition of colouring. 70cl bottles currently retail around £28 GBP in the UK.
Nose
Gentle smoke upfront with winter spices following quickly behind, like clove, pepper, and cinnamon. Beneath it there is sweet vanilla and a subtle fruitiness.
Taste
A noticeably soft arrival with an initial caramel-like flavour and texture, followed by the tastes of vanilla, sweet apples, and barley sugars all providing comforting sweetness. The oak and alcohol then take over with building peppery spices and woodsmoke. There’s something slightly tannic like a sandalwood note at the end there too.
Finish
The oak spices linger with a final duo of Werther’s original butter candy and woodsmoke left behind.
Verdict
I can see why this iconic whisky has held its place in the Johnnie Walker canon, and in the blended whisky market in general. It is remarkably soft and approachable with decent elements from its constituent distilleries. Given the age statement, then I’d suggest that it also benefits from the decent tenure in its various distilleries and casks.
It would be interesting to know just how influential their use of a 12yo age statement has been on other distilleries as it is certainly the standard or milestone that many strive for. Or is it just a sweet spot for scotch whisky in general? Who knows, but the black label wears its age proudly. Like a kid at a birthday party.
I’ve not had this whisky in a long time despite it being so readily available – maybe that is the reason in the first place! It’s texture is so soft and buttery – so Johnnie Walker. I’m not sure how they do it or what the oil content (I suspect that the Cameronbridge grain has some to do with it) is but it is pleasing and leads to that inevitable “smooth” descriptor.
As one of the worlds most famous blends, it’s ticking all of those scotch whisky boxes and feels like it’s giving you a decent experience – albeit without the heart or bite that its individual components might give you. It’s not exactly middle of the road, but maybe just off centre.
The smoky element might put people off but it is actually more prominent on the nose at first than it is in the mouth. Somehow though the glass seems more smoky afterwards!
Ultimately it is easily approachable and maybe more of a session whisky – almost the similar feel to New England IPAs in that it’s got the best part of IPA hop but has softness and fruit elements. But maybe one at a session ABV rather than a full on IPA or even DIPA you’d get by having, say, a Caol Ila or Glenkinchie its own.
This is not a blend vs single malt bashing thing either. I’ve had numerous blends that are better than other single malts [ed: this is now veering towards sounding like “some of best friends are blends”!] and this ticks a lot of boxes. It has been a while since I have had this and it is so ubiquitous in pub/bar selections that I’ve seldom returned to it as I’m always on the hunt for something new. I guess it depends what on mood you’re in, but if stood at standard British pub and their usual fare of whiskies were behind the bar, I’d probably be more inclined to opt for this now.
M
Sample disclosure: this miniature was contained within a Johnnie Walker 12 Days of Discovery advent calendar style package, which I bought through Malts.com. All notes are intended as an honest, fair, and independent review of the whisky itself, and not as a promotion. Please drink responsibly. Please drink wisely.
whisky unplugged 
Brave You are!
LikeLiked by 1 person