Tasting Notes: Nikka – All Malt

The rise and rise of Japanese whisky can be dated back 90 years to 1934 and the foundation of what we now know as Nikka. The Yoichi and Miyagikyo distilleries form part of the now-giant Japanese whisky establishment and this whisky features malt whiskies from those sites.

This bottle is one of their more signature/infamous expressions. Originally launched in 1990 and designed to offer an affordable and enjoyable introduction to the Japanese whisky experience, this blended malt features a distinctly Nikka methodology:

Made from 100% malt. Two types of malt whiskies, distilled in the patent still and the pot still, are blended.

This is an original method called “Nikka’s all-malt production method”

It brings a deep scent and mellow taste.
Nikka All Malt

Given the looser nature of the rules around whisky production in Japan, the Nikka brand has launched many experiments which have stood the test of time. For this bottling however, the All Malt release has now been discontinued – as have many Japanese whiskies. It has been duly replaced by other Nikka varieties, though I wouldn’t hold your breath on any age statement releases [ed: some of its contemporary Pure Malt expressions still exist, albeit the age statement Taketsuru pure malts have also disappeared]. The patent still referred to is also known as the Coffey still, and its “malt whiskies” (you’d have to call them grain spirits in Scotland) have been added to the traditional pot still fired single malt whiskies.

Bottled in a short, squat, and dimpled bottle, the All Malt was bottled at 40% ABV and available for £30-35 RRP at the time. Some bottles are still out there should you be so inclined.

Nose

Rich caramel, toffee, and vanilla make for a silky sweet smell. There’s quite the sweet floral note in there too – maybe cherry or orange blossom maybe, if I lean into the Japanese theme…. It has a light peachy smell bringing some orange and stone fruit notes, plus a bit of oak, a little spice, and there’s even a very gentle smoky touch.

Taste

A very soft and buttery sweet texture delivers orange crème chocolate flavours. It lives up to its name and is very malty. A solid malted barley backing to those key sweet, floral, and fruity flavours.

Finish

A bit of an astringent and harsher finish than expected for all the gentle and sweet flavours. There’s a spiky oak spice and it’s all a little too spirit-y.

Verdict

An enjoyable whisky that would be much greater if its profile and soft texture continued all way to the end. A disappointing drop off after the sweet floral notes promised so much.

It’s certainly been a conversation piece in the WU whisky cabinet, but I have had it on the shelf for a fair few years now – so much so it’s been discontinued in the meantime! Unfortunately that does reflect how often I have/haven’t re-visited it.

The first Japanese whisky that I ever drank was a Yamazaki 12yo, but given the price of a full size bottle, the All Malt represented my first proper purchase of Japanese whisky [ed: little did I know then how comparatively cheap that would be today’s prices!]. That purchase was then swiftly followed by Nikka From The Barrel, after this one promised so much but fell a bit short. I was all too happy to have it though as it was another one ticked off the list of Ian Buxton’s 101 Whiskies To Try Before You Die.

Now I’m nearing the end of the bottle, I will, of course, have to speed up the process of finishing it off before the sheer amount of air in there does its thing. One thing that strikes me though is just how orange the whisky is in colour. Definitely orangey in taste, but very much so in colour. I wonder if it’s had a swirl of the old caramel stick. The shape of the bottle makes me chuckle still.

The fact that it has been discontinued may be down it being outdated in terms of style, and/or related to the massive shortages in stocks of Japanese whisky. Its own success may be its own downfall.

For its misgivings (which I’ve only really noticed with time, to be fair) this was a cheap and cheerful bottle, a curiosity piece, and certainly a conversation starter.

Sample disclosure: I purchased this bottle myself a few years ago from Master of Malt. All notes are intended as an honest, fair, and independent review of the whisky, and not as a promotion. Please drink responsibly. Please drink wisely.