Tasting Notes: Johnnie Walker – Blue Label

The John Walker & Sons whisky machine has been running since their grocery opened in 1820. Whisky sales from the store led to them launching their own blended scotch whisky in 1865. What was originally their “Old Highland Whisky” went on to become recognised by its white label, and was later joined by its older 9yo and 12yo siblings with their respective red and black labels.

If you read their promotional materials then you would believe that over a century of whisky blending led them to the Blue Label.

Launched in 1992, the Blue Label is the peak core range offering in the Johnnie Walker canon.

“Where velvety smooth flavours blossom on the tongue. Johnnie Walker Blue Label Blended Scotch Whisky comes from hand-selecting rare Scotch Whiskies with a remarkable depth of flavour. Only one in 10,000 casks make the cut. Best served neat, along with an ice-cold water to enhance its powerful character.”
Johnnie Walker – Blue Label

Looking at the current line-up of their coloured label blended scotch whiskies, you would be forgiven for wondering why this is “Blue”? The running order seems to increase in opulence with Red, Black, Double Black, Gold, Platinum, and then… Blue?! But Blue it is. Described as their “super premium” blend, this is recognised worldwide as Johnnie Walker’s best in class, and it dictates the price tag to match (currently ca £170 GBP per 70cl bottle).

Each full size bottle comes in a blue silk-lined box, with a certificate of authentication, and a unique serial number. Despite that specificity, the exact formula of constituent single malt and grain whiskies are not shared. We know, of course, that it will feature old whiskies from across the Diageo/JW roster, but the blue-tinged square bottle seemingly brings its own guarantee. For all the age and reverence associated with the Blue Label we end up with a no-age-statement blended scotch whisky bottled at 40% ABV.

Nose

Vanilla fudge, caramel, honey, and warming dry peat smoke are the first to arrive. Gentle spices sit in the background with the sweet fruity smell of raisins and the delicious baking flavours of glazed danish pastries rounding it all out.

Taste

My goodness that is a soft delivery. There is a rich toffee silkiness and soft vanilla ice cream set of opening flavours and texture. It is joined by a gentle wood and peat smoke balance. It has a real dessert feel with crème caramels, honey, and milk chocolate all springing to mind. Not that it’s all sweetness and dairy-like. There’s a really gradual build of peppery oak spices. Some soft and sweet fruit notes in there like ripe peaches and some red berries, plus some toffee apples. The Danish pastry note is there again with the little raisin fruitiness and a vanilla custard filling.

Finish

Well yes… you won’t be surprised to see that this very “smooth”. Almost ice-cream like. It leaves a soft lingering oak spice and peat smoke trailing behind.

Verdict

If you want smooth… you got it.

The softness on the palate and finish is just so… soft. Remarkably so. The age of the contents must play heavily on the oily mouth coating feel of the whisky – something that I’ve certainly experienced with old grain whiskies. The fact that it is bottled at 40% ABV (ie the least alcohol content possible to still be called whisky) also means it is a less challenging sip.

That said, it has a decent body and depth without really leaving any leading or resounding signature notes – it’s more about the amalgam sensations and that signature Johnnie Walker touch of smoke – which l guess, is the beauty of blending.

Whilst we don’t know the exact age of the contents, we have to take it on merit that there are really old whiskies in the Blue Label blend and that also leads to another whisky adage: old whisky is old whisky – it is basically a category and experience in its own right. If the contents were 30 years old or more, for example, then you’d be hard pressed to find a single malt or grain for less than the JW Blue’s asking price.

On that point, you need to be careful about referring to this as a rare whisky, as they mean that it is their rarest whiskies that go into the final bottling rather than being a bottle that is hard to find. With the variance from batch to batch then it comes as no surprise that this is “Mit Farbstoff (Zuckerkulör)”. The exact reference of this sample, if needed, is ZH1-76038.

Overall, it has those soft and sweet vanilla fudgy flavours with a little bit of fruit, a little bit of smoke, and little bit of spice. Its almost as if the influences meld together and cancel each other out to make this giant soft and smoooooth thing that has underlined the mystique of JW Blue Label.

On that point, having been about on the market for over 30 years now, there is plenty of hype and commentary about this, with numerous limited edition bottlings having been released along the way. As with any big name release – particularly one commanding this sort of price – there will be those who love it and those who loathe it. There is invariably a place in the market for it though, and it has basically become a status symbol in its own right.

Sample disclosure: this miniature was contained within a Johnnie Walker 12 Days of Discovery advent calendar style package, which I bought through Malts.com. All notes are intended as an honest, fair, and independent review of the whisky itself, and not as a promotion. Please drink responsibly. Please drink wisely.