Back in 2005 there was incredible hype surrounding the establishment of Kilchoman as the first scotch whisky distillery to be built on the island of Islay in over 100 years. Thankfully we’ve not had to wait that long again.
Founded by the Hunter Laing company as their first distillery proper, Ardnahoe opened its doors to the public in 2019. It wasn’t until May 2024 though that their Inaugural release was made, a 5 year old Islay single malt scotch whisky.
This release here, Infinite Loch, represents the first core release to be made from the distillery, using the similar recipe to their inaugural release: a 5 year old peated whisky (40ppm) aged in a combination of ex-bourbon and ex-Oloroso sherry casks. Bottled at 50% ABV at its natural colour and without chill-filtration, the 70cl bottles are available now directly from Ardnahoe or good whisky stockists at an RRP of around £55 GBP.
Nose
Oh it is a classic Islay nose! They’ve leant into it! Peat smoke with a coastal note. There’s a definite smoky and meaty sensation like slow-cooked beef, barbecued pineapple (for a popping fruitiness) and the heat of cayenne pepper.
Taste
It’s actually a soft and sweet peat arrival. Not too smoky or too earthy. The barbecued meats and fruit sensations really follow through and the barbecued notes continue with a banana now cooking away on it! A little salinity offsets that sweet sensation, as does a final warming peppery note.
Finish
Warming crackled black pepper from the oak fizzes away and reverts back to peat smoke.
Verdict
It is modern take on a classic Islay single malt. The peat smoke is there in force but it’s balanced. It’s not super peaty. You’d think that building on Islay and trying to make a name for yourself would potentially lead you to go the more extreme route akin to an Octomore-like PPM explosion or the iodine-drenched notes of a Laphroaig, but no. The peat smoke is there as a leading role amongst a strong supporting cast of influences (meats and fruits).
What I was also surprised by was how soft and rounded the profile was. With a relatively young whisky coming in hot at 50%, I was expecting this to be super punchy, but it was just nicely rounded and consisted. The 50% remains dangerously subtle in the whole experience.
Coming to the look and feel of the main product itself (not the sample I’ve tried) and the branding and packaging all look cool and certainly on-trend with new distilleries that straddle that contemporary aesthetic within a traditional market.
Name-wise, I know I’m going to get Ardnahoe and Ardnamurchan mixed up as I try and keep up with modern distilleries. Also, describing something as infinite is a bold statement, and sets out your intentions of this product being on the market for the long run! The word loch may have negative connotations though as there is worry about the newbies and the rumours of the next whisky loch (the surplus of whisky created in the 1980s that saw off a lot of distilleries). There are certain distillers putting a pause on production currently, but fingers crossed for these guys.
The Laings certainly have the whisky credentials to make this a success though. The surname Laing should look familiar as it is linked to the Douglas Lain company, with the Hunter Laing company being created by Stewart Laing (brother of Douglas Laing’s Free Laing) and now being steered by Stewart’s sons Andrew and Scott.
Overall, a really enjoyable drop which showcases Islay’s elements at their best.
M
Dram disclosure: This sample was received as part of the Master of Malt Pour & Sip paid subscription service. All notes are intended as an honest, fair, and independent review of the whisky, and not as a promotion. Please drink responsibly. Please drink wisely.
whisky unplugged 
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