Since its rebrand and launch of a core range of age statement single malt whiskies in 2018, Whyte & Mackay’s Fettercairn has gone from strength to strength.
The distillery sees its 200th anniversary this year, and their relatively silent production has resulted in some BIG age statement releases being put out over recent years. Of the initial 12, 28, 40, and 50 year olds that were made available, the 40yo has remained the most frequently sold out! [ed: presumably linked to milestone birthdays and anniversaries of scotch lovers].
This single malt has spent 35 years of its life maturing quietly away in American white oak, ex-bourbon barrels but has then spent a final 5 years maturing in Apostoles sherry casks to impart some complementary spice and dark fruity flavours. This release has been bottled at 48.9% ABV and a regular sized bottle would make a dent in your bank account to the tune of ca. £3,000 GBP.
Nose
Well, at £3,000 per bottle, it seems a shame for the first tasting note to be that of Coca-Cola, – don’t worry, I haven’t added any to this! – but that’s the dark, rich, fruity and vegetal kind of sensation that the nose gives off at first. Saccharine and dense. There are some classic old whisky tasting notes to come from something this dense too: Leather. Tobacco. Prunes. Figs. Oranges. Almonds. Nutmeg. Teaked wood. The works.
Taste
More of the same on the palate here. Rich woody tones. There’s a nice, rich dark chocolate profile here now too. Bringing both the dark roasted cocoa bitterness and a soft, velvety texture and touch of sweetness. That oily orange flavour re-appears too after the chocolatey flavours fade. With the festive season approaching, this also seems to remind me of mince pies with brandy butter. Everything about this palate feels rich and decadent.
Finish
A really cloying and thick finish as this slips down the throat. With it, a strong wood and black peppery spice remind you that this has been in a barrel for 40 years and that just under half of the liquid content is pure alcohol. Nutmeg and that (seemingly) Fettercairn signature note of oranges linger.
Verdict
Well, this is a treat. So deep. So rich. So ruddy more-ish – and a damned expensive repeated dram it’s too! I would have to pair this with some dark chocolate too, as the decades of oak maturation and the final “finish” – if you can call it that after 5 years! – just bring unctuous cocoa, dark fruits, and lip-smacking spices in waves of flavour.
I don’t usually comment on the legs that a whisky leaves on the side of the glass, but these beads of whisky seem to take their own sweet time and, when they do decide to go (on their own terms, of course), they drop very slowly. The depth of flavour on this dram is remarkable.
If a bottle of this were to be found in the WU whisky cabinet, then it would come out for very special occasions only. But it still would come out and it would be drank. Whether or not I’d ever have the privilege to spend £3,000 on a bottle is a whole other matter. Maybe a very generous benefactor might shine down on me at that landmark age… 🤞
M
Sample disclosure: This sample was received as part of a tweet tasting event organised by Steve Rush @TheWhiskyWire in conjunction with Whyte and Mackay to promote the new releases and rebrand of the Fettercairn distillery back in 2018. As Fettercairn turns 200 years old and it coincides with another certain milestone, I thought I’d revisit it. All notes have been made as honestly, fairly, and independently as possible to reflect my own thoughts on the whisky. Please drink responsibly. Please drink wisely.
whisky unplugged 
Leave a comment