It is hard to imagine in today’s western world that the production, sale, and transportation of alcohol could be banned. Just over 100 years ago, that is exactly what happened in the United States.
In 1919 the 18th Amendment to the US Constitution was ratified and the Volstead Act started the period better known as the prohibition era.
As ever, the public response to such an act was to go underground and to take things into their own hands. In the land of opportunity, organised criminals gained notoriety with bootlegging and speakeasies becoming an underhand part of life. There is no more an infamous example of this than the exploits of Al Capone. During Prohibition it is believed that New York City had somewhere between 30,000-100,000 speakeasies tucked away from the eyes of the law.
It is therefore pretty surprising that in a city known for its speakeasy clubs and excessive ways that it was not until nearly 90 years after Prohibiton ended, and just over a hundred years since alcohol production was banned, that NYC’s first LEGAL whiskey was sold!
Enter Great Jones Distillery.
In 2021 the distillery launched their first 3 whiskies: Straight Bourbon, Four Grain Bourbon, Straight Rye, and numerous special editions and finishes have been released since. All components grown aged and distilled in New York.
For this post we are looking at their Straight Bourbon. This whiskey features an initial mash bill of corn, barley and rye grains, which have all been grown in the “Rich Black Dirt of the Empire State”. The spirit has then been matured for a minimum of four years in new American oak barrels before being presented in a stylish 75cl bottle at 43% ABV.
Nose
Fresh oak off the bat. Really fresh and vibrant. Big vanilla pod smell. Fudge, toffee and honey – both the sweet sensation of honey and that little earthy note behind it. A little white pepper spice.
Taste
A silky soft arrival brings lots of sweet vanilla deliciousness. There’s a gentle peppery heat and fizzle on the tongue as the oak and alcohol do their work. Buttered toast and cinnamon roll flavours build and complement the oak.
Finish
Clotted cream-like softness and vanilla sweetness fade as the peppery finish takes hold, without overpowering.
Verdict
This has all of the classic bourbon characteristics but the way that they all meld together makes this work for me. A very easily approachable bourbon.
Maybe I’m not versed enough in bourbon to know if this is too easy going but my experience to date with your standard big bourbon names is that after a few sips, the oak flavour becomes the dominant characteristic. I mean that’s fine and understandable as they have to use fresh American oak after all, but here the vanilla flavours and silky soft texture stay with you and balanced with the oak to invite sip after sip. Dangerous business.
For the all the metropolitan tropes and trends that emerge from and/or manifest in New York, I’m very surprised that this is the first whiskey to be officially made in New York. Sure, there will have been plenty of illegal ones and moonshine aplenty, but for the whisky and cocktail booms of the past two decades, how it has taken a century for a new one to exist seems remarkable. Is it the purely eye-watering property prices that have prevented bourbon from being made? Either way it’s staggering that nearly 90 years have passed since prohibition ended in NYC and no-one has made bourbon there since. Quite the claim and accolade. I love that they’ve embraced the art decorating of the time as a nod to that.
There’s some poetic licence in the 100 year milestone as it was first being produced in 2016, but you’d round up the figure too wouldn’t you? In terms of legal whiskey being sold, it stands up. 101 years!
The fact that the bottle says Batch 001 did pique my interest further but after 3 years on the market and the bottle being numbered in the high 54,000s, this is definitely one for drinking and not one for saving.
Anyway, back to the whiskey, and what we have is a very approachable bourbon at a reasonable price point (around $40 / £32 per bottle). Definitely something that New Yorkers and tourists will be attracted to, for sure. One for easy sipping neat or as a great bourbon back for a cocktail.
M
Sample disclosure: I’m trying to be impartial but this is a bottle that I bought at JFK airport and brought back with me from a phenomenal trip to NYC itself, so bear with me. All notes are an honest, fair, and independent review of the whisky, and not a promotion. Please drink responsibly. Please drink wisely.
whisky unplugged 